This exceptional 1990s cocktail ring, set in 18 kt gold with a faceted green tourmaline flanked by pear emeralds, calibré cut rubies, and brilliant-cut diamonds, reflects not only bold color and presence but also a lineage of cross-cultural inspiration that has shaped European high jewelry for more than a century. The rich interplay of colored gemstones and gold echoes the opulent palettes and lavish combinations characteristic of Indian princely jewels, from the Maharajas’ gem-laden treasuries to the florid patterns of Mughal-era ornamentation.
European maisons such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels were deeply influenced by Indian design aesthetics in the early twentieth century. Jacques Cartier’s travels in India introduced him to carved rubies, emeralds, and sapphires and to traditional motifs such as paisleys, floral sprays, and stylised foliage — elements that became hallmarks of the famed Tutti Frutti style and helped redefine Western high jewelry beyond the diamond-centric traditions of the Belle Époque.
Likewise, Van Cleef & Arpels’ creative exchanges with Indian ornamentation enriched its design language through tours and commissions from Indian royalty, inspiring flexible forms and vibrant color combinations in gems and gold that resonated with both princely and international tastes.
The Baroda style embodied in this ring, with its exuberant use of colored gemstones against lustrous 18 kt gold, thus stands within a broader narrative that celebrates the fusion of Eastern color sensibilities and Western craftsmanship. The result is jewelry that is at once historically rooted and visually contemporary: an expressive emblem of global design dialogue and enduring glamour.
The stones are estimated:
Center stone 7,61ct tourmaline.
Approx 0,72ct emeralds.
Approx 0,46ct rubies.
Diamonds approx 0,60 ctv, estimated F-G/VS.
Ring size: us 6,5, EU 53, UK M½, diameter 17, 13
Gross weight: 13,1gram
