In the 1950s and 1960s Bulgari created extraordinary floral brooches.
This spectacular jewel is mounted en tremblant, designed as four variously-shaped diamond flower blossoms, set with a brilliant-cut diamond pistil, enhanced by numerous brilliant -cut or oval-cut diamonds, with circular, navette, oval and baguette-cut diamond leaves and stems, mounted in white gold. Three flowers are mounted en tremblant.
Attributed to BVLGARI circa 1960
Total Diamond weight approximately 10,55ct G-I /predominately vs some vvs.
Measures approx. 6x5cm
Gross weight: 30.9
Hallmarked 750. Not signed.
The economic prosperity after the war prompted a comeback in the 1950s of high jewelry characterized by flowing designs and lavishly set with diamonds and precious gemstones mounted in white metal.
Flowers and Jewelry have always made the most romantic gifts. From a decorative point of view too, a bouquet of natural flowers was, and often still is, considered the most suitable embellishment as gift of appreciation. The flower motif has therefore naturally played an important role in jewelry design history.
In the 1950s and 1960s, Bulgari revived the traditional en tremblant flower brooch drawing inspiration from antique 18th century French examples — a jeweled bloom, with flower heads mounted on a trembling spring that quivers with each movement — transforming it into a dazzling symbol of postwar Italian glamour. The designer Gianni Valli (1916 – 1991) was lead of the asymmetrical floral sprays that would come to become a characteristic of the firm for the decade. The wire-coiled springs creates realistic movement and height, resulting in more volume, sparkle and liveliness. Combining brilliant-, oval, baguette and marquise-cut diamonds, Bulgari infused these naturalistic motifs with modern volume, luminosity, and unmistakable Roman flair.
These jewels captured the spirit of the La Dolce Vita era, when Rome became the epicenter of style and sensual sophistication. Bulgari’s floral brooches graced the wardrobes of many elegant women of the time — among them Elizabeth Taylor, Ingrid Bergman and Princess Soraya of Iran — who embodied the confident femininity and opulence the designs conveyed. Ingrid Bergman appeard with one on screen as a hair clip.
Bridging old-world craftsmanship and contemporary exuberance, Bulgari’s en tremblant creations shimmered with life and movement, redefining the language of mid-century jewelry and establishing the house as a beacon of modern luxury.
The diamond brooch has continued through the centuries and remains today still as one of the best-loved representations of fine traditional jewelry.
Reference:
See; Amanda Triossi, Bulgari: Between Eternity and History, exhib. cat. (Rome, Palazzo delle Esposizioni), Milan 2009, Mascetti/Triossi BVLGARI, Abbeville press 1996, p76-78 or The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor: The Legendary Jewels, Evening Sale (I), Christies 13 dec 2011. Diamond brooch, bulgari, circa 1960. Sothebys NY, 2016-11-16, Diamond brooch, Bulgari, 1962, Sothebys Geneva, 2010-05-11
